Thursday, January 29, 2009

My Dinner With Vince | By Laura Bracali


















I have taken well over a month to ponder this issue. A meal with Vince? What I can say for sure is I can't think of a memory I have of Vince that doesn't include food. When I was trying to narrow it down to one particular story, there was an underlying problem ... we not only enjoy delicious grub, but we also indulge in thirst-quenching spirits. For this reason, my memories are vague!!!!

I recall a fabulous trip to San Francisco but the memories are vague--we walked the streets, stopping for margaritas along the way. Was it Indian for dinner?

Happy Birthday, My Dear Cousin! I always look forward to our visits--the good eats, too many drinks, and great conversations!

With much love,
Laura

Monday, January 26, 2009

Vince, My Paisan | By Sondra Roberto

My friend Vince was a real hunk-ski
So handsome he made the girls squeal-ski
But he claimed to be a fellow Italo
To which I replied, "Oh, hell, no!
Whoever heard of a paisan named Bielski?"

So Vince declared, "For Pete's sake!
A delicious carbonara I will make
With cream and pancetta so thick
And savory chunks of garlic
One taste and you'll know I'm no fake!"

So with good friends and good wine we did eat
And marveled at Vince's great feat
And I accepted as fact
(his dago credentials intact),
A finer half-Italian I never did meet.

In fact, there's no chef better than him
For carbonara and other great things
But, Vince, being your pal
I'll tell right now
Now that you're fifty, use skim.

--Sondra

My Dinner With Vince | By Mike France



















When it comes to food, my wife is from Venus and I am from Mars. She comes from the planet where people are knowledgeable about food, can detect sophisticated spices, enjoy subtle flavors, and can say intelligent things about cuisine. I come from the planet where people react in a simple, arithmetic way to butter, salt, and sugar. The greatest tribute I can pay to Vince is that he makes dinners that my wife and I both love. Again, and again, and again. The ribs, the eggplant parmigiana, the guacamole, the margaritas. Lowbrow enough for me, highbrow enough for her. Too many weekend chefs aim high and execute low. Vince is the opposite. Something about being the intellectual from Michigan has created a democratic, unpretentious food sensibility that targets $9 entrees and makes them taste like $30 entrees. In my book, that's as good as it gets. 

My Dinner With Vince | By Bob Ivry


















Pesto.
Pesto. Pesto.
Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto.
Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto.
Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto.
Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto.
Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto.
Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto.
Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto. Pesto.

Now that we have that out of the way, let me take you to a tropical beach where the sand is too hot to walk on and the water is the same color as the sky. We're lounging in hammocks in a roofless cabana made of bamboo limbs tied tightly together. At high tide, the hissing surf comes a meter or two from our doorless door. A Toltec fertility temple slouches halfway to ruin in one direction; a rocky shoreline lurks just out of view in another. As long as the current doesn't take us out to Cuba or our feet damage the coral reef, floating in the lazy waves is nourishing for the soul. But it doesn't feed the belly. So we walk, sometimes scramble, over the pile of car-sized black rocks to the local market, where we load up on hot tortillas, zaftig mangos, and avocados as big as our heads, and take them back to our hammocks. Imagine the tortillas melting in your mouth. The mangos yielding like a willing bride to your knife. And when you bite into the avocado, the juice running down your arm.

It was half a lifetime ago but it's here with us, isn't it? Happy Birthday, Vin, and I hope we'll remember the mangos of today twenty-five years from now.

xo, 
Bob

Sunday, January 25, 2009

All My Dinners With Vince | By Aunt Becky














I really don't know where to start except in 1969 when I met a beautiful blond, blue-eyed little boy by the name of Vince. It was love at first sight and a love for his energy and love of food. I have never seen a child enjoy food as much as Vince did at his age. Vince at a very early age would devour his food with his face one inch from his plate so as not to miss a single morsel. To this day he eats the very same way.

Vince has grown into a wonderful husband and father and always thinks of his whole extended family when he comes home to Michigan. He always plans a huge get-together with family and old friends with lots of food, wine and Becks beer. I cannot really say which is my favorite meal with Vince because all of them are my favorite. I do look foward to the annual Stag Island family-friends weekend with Vince, Chris and Luca because we all know as a family Vince has planned a weekend of great food and conversation. This past summer we had a great time with the photos of the three Vinces in the family and reunion of all of Luca's cousins, who love him very much.

Vince, your Uncle V enjoyed good food as much as you do and would probably have some really funny anecdotes for this but all I can write is that for the last 40 years I have known you, you have always had a special place in my heart, even though your eating habits have given a mother or aunt a few moments of despair. I wish you a very Happy Birthday and look foward to many more dinners with you.

Friday, January 23, 2009

The Ratings Game














Vince likes to play this little game, apparently because it's fun to torture himself. Whenever he makes dinner, he forces me to rate it. So I do. And I'm honest. Because Vince is very thick-skinned in most ways, and because, well, I can't help but be honest, even if it hurts. So a dinner will not just get an A, B, etc., but a gradation of that--A- or B+--with full commentary. This is all on Vince's insistence, you understand.

Now anyone who has had Vince's cooking knows it rarely falls short of a great meal. So really, a B+ for Vince is like an A for the rest of us. But he's the type of person who always sees room for improvement, a trait that can be maddening at times but in all is a very, very good thing. (He's pushed me in more ways than one, to my benefit. Thank you, honey. :P)

So a typical "ratings game" dinner conversation might go like this. 

Vince: "So what do you think? How is the risotto?"
Me: "Okay, it's great overall. But here's what I would say. I think it's a bit dusky."
Vince: "What? Dusky?! What does that mean?"
Me: "Well, it could use a little brightening, really. I like the mushroom flavor but it needs a little something to bring it up. I think some sort of sweet herb could do the trick, or maybe a handful of sun-dried tomatoes."
Vince: "What?! It's perfect, though, isn't it? I mean, how would you rate it?"
Me: "Honestly? Because, you know, I have to be honest."
Vince: [Nods head, looks down anxiously.]
Me: "I'd have to give it a B+ to an A-."
Vince: "What?! B+?!"
Me: [Nodding.] "And I think a bit more lemon."

Vince clutches his head and moans in agony, a very Italian gesture. He then challenges my "review," but eventually agrees. Ah, just another low-pressure meal in the Bielski-Borris household. 

xo,
Chris

Sunday, January 18, 2009















Tasty Morsels

I don't have a story to tell of a specific meal enjoyed with Vince, just fond recollections — some tidbits — filed in my memory: relaxing evenings sitting around Chris and Vince's kitchen table nibbling on tortilla chips and piquant guacamole, cutting the heat with ambrosial, limey margaritas; the time that Vince rescued my gravy from blandness by spiking it with Grand Marnier!, thus saving Thanksgiving; and the appearance of a Rioja at almost every meal shared together, a wine that will forever remind me of Vince.  
— xoxo Gina

Friday, January 16, 2009

Editing--Just Another Excuse to Talk About Food

For most people, it would have been a straightforward story meeting. For Vince and John, it was another excuse to talk about food.

It was the early 1990s and we were all working at San Francisco Weekly. John Roemer was our main news writer, an intrepid reporter with flair who once wrote a news feature on the Mission's burritos. This was, John tells me, at Vince's behest, and the project entailed much "research" on the part of both John and Vince. (A good editor must be "hands-on," right, though it doesn't usually mean "hands-on the burrito.")

Well, Vince and I shared an office, so I got to overhear not only his brass-tacks editing sessions with less gourmand writers but his nearly operatic discussions of food with John. John would come in with a story to pitch but the news could wait. For Vince and John needed to talk about the best way to do a pork roast; whether it was better to use the traditional parsley in vongole or do John's version with basil; the itinerary for a daylong feast that would include a trip to Tomales Bay for oysters (eat there or bring back?) and end with pasta, dessert, and way too much wine in Sausalito.

When the volume rose, for neither is a quiet man, I would sometimes grumpily shout over the partition that they really needed to quiet down and finish up so we could get some f@!#ing work done. But often I said nothing, for I was listening to the details of my next meal.

xo,
Chris 

So Many Feasts to Remember | By Shirim Nothenberg


















It is hard to even know where to begin when writing about the most memorable meal I have enjoyed with Vince. There was that summer evening we spent on Chris and Vince's deck sipping margaritas made with freshly squeezed lime juice and watching Vince lovingly baste an enormous rack of ribs on the grill. Its equal was during a weekend in Sag Harbor when Vince turned the simplest hamburger into a divine creation by adding olives, garlic, and some other ingredients I was too slow or drunk to catch. And then there is the guacamole…. And that only captures the summer months. I did not think a cold and dreary winter Sunday could be rescued until Vince whipped up a few croque monsieurs and popped a bottle of champagne. Better yet was the utterly decadent multilayered eggplant parmigiana he served on a frigid winter night in the cozy living room of their first apartment in Brooklyn. While I could continue to detail meal after amazing meal, one truly stands out. It was the end of August and peak basil season. Vince grilled the most beautiful steaks, which he served with perfectly al dente pasta tossed with the creamiest, most fragrant, home-made pesto imaginable. All served with incredible pinot noir. A meal I will never forget.

Recounting all of these feasts merely demonstrates what everyone already knows: that Vince is an absurdly good cook. While that certainly makes any invitation to his home more than merely enjoyable, it is not what makes those times great. It is the warmth and grace with which he and Chris welcome you to their table, and the intelligent, insightful, and witty conversations that are guaranteed to ensue. Some of the best times I have had since moving to Brooklyn have been spent lingering at Chris and Vince's table, wine glass in hand, listening to Luca and Eli wreak havoc in the bedroom while savoring the company of two of my most cherished friends. Happy Birthday, Vince. 

Love, Shirim

Thursday, January 8, 2009

Dinner with Vince in Brooklyn


Steve and I have had many a good dining experience and plenty of enjoyable drinking and eating sessions with Vince & Chris, many of them on their lovely deck in Brooklyn. Today I’m going to note our night out at the Blue Ribbon restaurant, which was preceded by cocktails and appetizers chez Bielski. The night was Saturday March 26th, 2005, and it was probably one of the few times we all ate out without the toddlers (L&L), as Chris's Mum was at hand to look after them that evening.

If we could re-do a night to celebrate such a special occasion as Vince's 50th, it could be this one, not just for the good food and wine, but for the great company. Perhaps this time we could take the kids as they'd enjoy the fries? And I might suggest putting Matt Damon at the next table - as long as he's not filming the next Bourne movie.

That night we ate tasty fishes and meats, washed down with a hearty red Cahors wine, Chateau Lamartine, vintage 2001, (13% Alc.) We talked, we laughed and we got a little tipsy; there was a real buzz in the place, and it was coming from our table! I thought I’d add these ditties that we wrote down that night:



All: "The wine was fine, even if we ain't on the Rhine,
That line was fine oh wife of mine!
"
Vince: "Matt, fat. Steve's cat.
"
Steve: "Vince da mac daddy after dat."
Chris: "It was him!"
Deborah: "Oh, why did Matt have to leave."

Vince is such good company - entertaining, funny and packed with interesting stories. He doesn’t allow meals to be rushed by ordering too quickly, but he doesn’t like slow service either. Dining, lunching or brunching with Vince is an enjoyable event; he would be one of the guests at my desert island dinner party.

We raise our glasses - "in Vinnie veritas."

My Dinner With Vince | By Hogan Bielski



















"Laughter is brightest in the place where the food is."
-- Irish proverb

"Your brother is making dinner." That's it. No "This is your mother," which was her standard phone greeting, or even "Hello." In that dry voice she would use with more than a twinge of sarcasm. But I had come to know exactly what this conversation intro meant and the proper response, for Vince was in town. "So what's he making this time, Ethiopian goat or what?" Mom would always laugh and I would find a comfy spot for the dialog to follow.

"The trouble with eating Italian food is that five or six days later you're hungry again."
--George Miller

And the trouble with remembering Vince's individual dinners is they seem to just have all melded together, thanks to the whirlwind pace of his visits back to Michigan. The accompanying partying and libations may have had something to do with that, but one thing is for sure. When Vince comes to town, he will be a'cookin' at least one family dinner and times will be had. But that Carbonara, oh, that one refuses to be forgotten. The best of Vince's creations during his THERE WILL BE PASTA phase indeed took days to recover from but was worth every delayed onset gastric symptom. I would wager that to this day that meal had the highest caloric and LDL cholesterol count of any single serving I have ever ingested. Perhaps that is why I don't really recall the banter and solving the problems of the world that usually occur afterwards, but would still do it again without hesitation. Of course, the second time around I will be prepared and take the following day off work.

"Anything that walks, swims, crawls, or flies with its back to heaven is edible."
--Cantonese saying (Source: The Chinese Kitchen by Eileen Yin-Fei Lo) 

"I don't know why he doesn't just make something normal," Mom would continue. Vince's cuisine du jour was one of her two complaints during his exotic phases. She looked forward to the event and family gathering that Vince catalyzed, as we all did. It was as if these calls were the prelim to the main event and she couldn't wait to get things started. "Well, whatever he makes is always good," I would respond, which was true. "We'll see," Mom would say, and usually remind me of the single partial failure out of all Vince's many dinners.

"There are five elements: earth, air, fire, water and garlic."
--Louis Diat

Now this one sounds great on paper and was not actually a failure in my mind. Take a leg of lamb, separate it into big chunks, marinate it in a bottle of red wine and half a dozen heads of garlic for a few days, and then throw it on the BBQ. Simple and convenient, a seemingly perfect concoction for up at the cottage, where lengthy or involved preparations become a challenge due to limited resources, time and libation constraints. In fact, it was these dinners at the cottage that ended with the most engaging and varied conversations. When Vince invited the whole extended fam damily, the mix of liberals and conservatives, union members and non, yankees and billies, the ingredients were in place for a lively recipe, to be sure. What failed? Only the dish, perhaps, but not the experience. Grilled to very rare and in largish hunks, the lamb was not a hit. Hmmm, noted I, the outer, more well-done portions were quite flavorful and tasty. So back on the grill went my rare uneaten center portion and, eureka, crusty, garlicky heaven. As I continued to devour the regrilled lamb, I could not convince any others to do the same. A shame, but that left me my choice of pieces to eat at my leisure. The only real drawback afterwards, I could not directly face anyone while conversing with them on the current hot topic.

"A messy kitchen is a happy kitchen, and this kitchen is delirious!"
--Unknown

So once Mom and I would get past the specifics of the chosen cuisine, we would move on to issue number two. "I can't even walk into the kitchen when your brother is cooking!" I would have to agree here since my observations of Vince's cooking style might best be described as loosely controlled mayhem. Nary would a utensil, pot, cooking or prep surface remain unscathed for long. I mean, finding an open spot on the countertop to set down one's bottle of Beck's was difficult. It wasn't that Vince's resultant clutter would remain unaddressed (often thanks to his better half); Mom just couldn't deal with the chaos in process. So at last I would point this out, we would laugh and confirm the date and time, and look forward to a dining and family encounter par excellence.

"Food to a large extent is what holds a society together, and eating is closely linked to deep spiritual experiences."
--Peter Farb and George Armelagos

Well, bro, it looks like I will miss your next visit to town, spending time with you and yours and the group you will gather, and whatever repast your aging mind has in store. Dad just called as I type this, claims he just hung up with you and it's crab legs, and he needs to find some good ones right away (or rad away, as he says). So he sure seems excited at the prospect of your tearing up his kitchen, which constitutes proof positive of your culinary prowess, albeit a bit tame on the menu selection, I would say. Guess you're getting a bit long in the tooth and the gap between you and Dad is finally closing. So next I assume you'll be voting Republican? What? No more Bush vs. Obama debates? Say it isn't so! What Dad is really excited about is you, Chris, and Luca coming to visit, just as Mom always was. The fact you can throw together a mean chipped beef is just the icing on the cake, and, to a degree, the icing that holds our gatherings together and gave Mom a subject to get it all started with. If she was still with us, I bet her calls would have already started in anticipation of your visit and all that truly meant to her. (OK, I know it's Chris who makes the mean chipped beef, but you know what I mean.)

Happy 50th, Vince, wishing you many more birthdays to come, and by the way, as I see it, you owe me a dinner. 

Love ya,
Hoagie   
 

Wednesday, January 7, 2009

My Breakfast With Vince | By Dave Epstein














Of the many meals I have enjoyed with Vince over the years, the most memorable took place on Independence Day in 2003, in a dusty California desert town known, ironically, as Independence. It was an accidental breakfast, almost a mirage. Ivry and I had convinced Vin to join us for a climb of Mt. Whitney--the tallest peak in the continental U.S. To ensure that the two lunatics did not throw him off the side of the mountain, Vin brought Waters along for the fun of it. The four of us climbed together from dawn on July 3, struggling without enough water, gut-wrenching trail food and unyielding gravity. We later split into two groups, with Ivry and Waters forging to the summit as conquerors while Vince and I consoled each other at 13,500 feet and beat a defeated retreat.

The four of us reunited in the dark, exhausted and beaten. We awoke the next morning to the brilliant desert sun, pondering a long trip back to the Bay Area. There were no specific plans for further adventure or food, just a gnawing hunger and overwhelming soreness. We hit the road, only vaguely recognizing that food might be tough to find on a normal day in Lone Pine on the way north to Deadman's Pass. As the reality of traveling on July 4th set in, we quietly resolved to accept our hunger until we arrived back home.

To our collective astonishment, we found a holiday block party just past Independence. Traffic was virtually stopped, so we pulled off the road, more to find some shade and a detour than to join the party. We were ushered into a pancake breakfast, where the remarkably friendly people insisted that we have as many pancakes as we could collectively eat. I don't remember much of the conversation, but that most basic of meals epitomizes much of what I have done with Vince over the years--turning unlikely and desperate moments into memorable adventures.

In wishing you a happy 50th, I hope we have the chance to enjoy more adventures together in the future, though with better food.

Your friend, 
David Epstein